By Bonnie English
This re-creation of a bestselling textbook is designed for college kids, students, and a person drawn to twentieth century type historical past. Accessibly written and good illustrated, the booklet outlines the social and cultural heritage of favor thematically, and encompasses a wide selection of worldwide case reviews on key designers, kinds, pursuits and occasions. the recent version has been revised and accelerated: there are new sections on eco-fashion, type and the museum, significant adjustments within the type industry within the twenty first century (including the impression of recent media and retailing networks), new applied sciences, style w. Read more...
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Extra resources for A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries : from catwalk to sidewalk
This point is detailed by Zola in Au Bonheur des Dames (Ladies’ Delight) (1883), a fictional account presumably based on the business ventures of the Bon Marché: Publicity was, above all, a tremendous force. Mouret spent as much as three hundred thousand francs a year on catalogues, advertisements and posters. For his sale of summer fashions he had sent out two hundred thousand catalogues, of which fifty thousand, translated into all languages, were sent abroad. (1989 : 56) These new commercial merchandising techniques did not escape the attention of the avant-garde artists Picasso and Braque, who seized upon the opportunity to appropriate small sections of commercial logos into their collaged work.
By the 1920s, women were coerced through consumer fantasy into thinking that they could express their own individuality and personality regardless of economic limitations, class restraints and conflict. In other words, the needs of the consumer economy effectively became a woman’s needs as well. The use of ‘social psychology for understanding and directing consumer behaviour’ investigated ‘human association and motivation’, and this in turn created ‘lifestyle advertising’. The association of a particular commodity with a whole way of life was a remarkably successful advertising technique.
Ayer & Son and Erwin Wasey (1991: 36). These firms promoted a more rational persuasive technique, commonly cited as the American ‘hard sell’ approach. By incorporating a ‘press insert’ in the advertisement, information was combined ‘with persuasive reasoning’. This ‘salesmanship in print’ was often ‘backed up by ostensibly scientific data and testimonials from prominent social figures’, and sold the beneficial properties rather than the functional aspects of the product. The ‘intentional blurring of the “real” reading material and editorializing for consumer products’ was achieved by using similar page formatting and typographical print for both news articles and advertising sections within the publication (de Grazia, 1991: 241).
A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries : from catwalk to sidewalk by Bonnie English